I visited Istanbul for the first time 4 years ago. It
was one year before the high school graduation. Very symbolic, because now when
one more year is left to my university graduation I am here again celebrating
my 22th birthday in Istanbul.
Before this trip to Istanbul I had one more
opportunity to cope with Turkish culture shadings. I was invited on a free trip
in Turkey. I’d be back only today. But several days before the departure people
who had invited me said that there was no place for me anymore. I was really
confused. Why would someone who is not sure invite me more than a week in
advance?
I was so angry that I managed to stop a car in Turkey!
Yeah, in Turkey where it seems that people do not really pay much attention to
the traffic-lights.
So, I had two ways – to be angry, do nothing and
complain about unorganized and always late Turkish people or do something. My
birthday was coming up and I didn’t want to spend it alone in a hotel. So, I
asked if there were any places to go to in Istambul with Americans. Hallelujah!
I was lucky and got a spot.
Lately I’ve been thinking a lot about the past.
Sometimes I wish that I hadn’t had this year or maybe even two. On the another
hand, youth is for making mistakes and if you understand them it will make you
grow. Again, I want to go places and do things. I feel such lust for life, for
discoveries and those little aha moments
that I believe that these three months are like a gift that allows me to look at
myself at a distance. I think I’m here in Turkey for a lot of reasons, but
mainly to cope with emotions and become more tolerant. I do not worry anymore
if something doesn’t go according to a plan. I just laugh at it. What else
should I do? When you have done everything you could curiously warm tranquility
settles inside and here, you learn to wait. The time passes by and you get what
you’ve earned.
As our mentor, Mehmet
said, ‘We just don’t care’. So, maybe this is a secret of Turkish life?
The first day
I’d say that Istambul is a city as you experience it,
and felt as discovered. As Napoleon Bonaparte said, ‘If the world were a single
state, Istanbul would have been its capital.’ It’s a meeting point of cultures
and civilizations. For me it’s a city with a limitless sky above, where Europe
and Asia meet. At first sight it looks like a city full of mess, noise and no
harmony, but you’re wrong it is always balanced precariously, far-sighted, a
town open for everybody.
Istanbul is the most developed and the largest city of
Turkey, and the latest discoveries indicate that the history of human civilisation
goes back 400,000 years ago. The Megarians settled and founded the city of
Byzantium that later lent its name to the Byzantine Empire. However, the first
settlers in the region established their city Chalcedon (Kadikoy), on ‘the land of blind people’ which was strategically
less important. And the Megarians, led by Oracle became aware of the beauty of
Seraglio Point (Sarayburnu), and they established their city there on the
opposite side of Chalcedon. Today historical peninsula is the most nicest part
of Istanbul.
This is a city that many desired to conquer. But the
desire to possess the city cannot be explained only by its strategic position
or unsurpassed beauty; it has a different attraction, a mystical magnetism that
used to draw states, empires and great conquerors towards it.
For more than 1,500 years Istanbul was the capital of
two empires, firstly the Byzantine and later Ottoman. It’s the reason why here diverse cultures
collide, nations and religions mingle. Those cultures, nations and religions
are the small pieces that form the mosaic of Istanbul.
I’ll name places that are really worth visiting here.
We had really boring guide Apdal. Drop all the guided tours and go explore the city with your
friends or locals, because it is much more interesting to get lost, to ask for a
way. Yeah, I love travelling with my friends, but at this moment even trips
only with myself sound enjoyable. Because it’s the hardest to be only on your
own, solely with your thoughts, habits and stereotypes. But it is worth doing,
because after sometime you start to feel free and let the past go without you
anymore. When you are afraid of something, you feel that you are alive.
So, talking about our guide, he was kind of person who
can’t attract your attention. Also, after the long trip we were almost dying,
so listening to him became even harder. Firstly, we visited Blue Mosque. I
still don’t know the reason I hadn’t put scarf on my head, the guide was
worried only about shoulders and legs.
Next visit was to Hagia Sophia. Originally
built as an Eastern Orthodox church later it was converted to a mosque in the
mid 1400s. Now its a museum.
Basilica cistern (Yerebatan
Cistern) was our other point. One of Istanbul’s major shortcomings was the
supply of drinking water. Actually, still is, you can’t drink water from the
tap, but should buy bottles. This cistern’s roof is supported by 336 columns.
As before two years ago I threw a coin again, I’d like to come back here
someday. Inside is really dark, you can small fish swim, wooden platforms built
just above the water level, and of course mysterious Medusa head, which is rumored
to turn the unwary gazer into stone if directly, looked at in the eye.
For lunch we went to restaurant which looked like one
of those Italian. I loved the service there of course. It is way different from
other places I visited. I had some humus and chicken crepe. The prices are way bigger
than in Eskisehir, but you have try Istambul’s cuisine for sure. But better not
buy food from streets – I tasted sandwich with lamb, but after this I felt
strange it was too heavy.
Topkapı Palace is a place within the royal walls. It was the
residence of the Ottoman sultans for 400 years: The Topkapi Palace was built on
the prime site of the historical peninsula of Istanbul with commanding views of
the Istanbul Strait. The architecture of this palace was not similar to
European places. The Ottoman sultans paid great attention to build grandiose
religious buildings, while they kept the architecture of their own residences
quite plain, just enough to meet their needs. This was probably due to the
influence of Islamic thought.
The last visit was in Grand Bazaar. Our guide knew
that everybody was itching to spend money, so he pointed out all the cheapest
places in the city, but asked not to bargain. What a lie! Where else would I
get a bargain if not here, because they double the prices every time, so you
can easily overpay. Me, Qianqian and Caroline were called Charlie’s Angels. That was the sweatiest
invitation. Others were too intimate, insulting or just too obsessive.
Despite 3000 of odd shops it didn’t look crowded. I
got some presents, and I had a really interesting chat. We were trying to
bargain for earrings. I was trying to play as we are here already for three
months, so we know the real prices and people, but that guy said, ‘Oh, you even
don’t imagine what the real Turkish people are’, that was mysterious and not
very pleasant experience. But you should visit this place and feel that messy
and authentic Turkish atmosphere.
I enjoyed going to Spice Bazaar much more and buying
Turkish delights (gummy candy type of thing made out of
honey and other favors).
The second day
Staying in Sultain’s hostel was tolerable. Well, when
you come just for two nights it doesn’t really matter where, right?
Day began with Bosphorus boat trip. It was amazing as
it made me feel like being in-between two worlds. Later we went for a lunch and
had a strange fish sandwich which was made on the street.
If you want to visit Dolmabahçe Palace you have to
wait in a huge line. Also, prices for entry are different for Turkish people
and foreigners – we had to pay more than two times. But as you enter the palace
you forget all about it – it feels like dreaming ancient dream.
But there was akward moment when guide started saying
that people from Europe are rude and stucked-up (he thought that all our group
is from America), so then he realised that I’m from Lithuania, he tried to
cover up it distinquishing people from England, France and Spain.
Istiklal Street (Istiklal
Cadesi) – is the main lively street in Turkey. It’s really crowded – around
2 million visitors every day. The only vehicular movement breaking the flood of
human activity is the nostalgic thread of tramlines. Both sides of the street
are lined with art galleries, famous shops and cafes where lively talk goes on
and passages drink dens. Interestingly there are no rubbish bins because of the
fear of possible terrorist attacks. So, it’s a little bit dirty. The Americans
started asking whether it was like this in all Europe? Of course not, it
depends on the country.
I loved the view, panoramic vistas of unique location
from Galata Tower. You can observe lives in streets and lovely terraces on the
roof. Somebody is rushing, somebody is just reading, taking and sun tanning
while others are trying to catch birds for food. I wanted to stay here for a
while. Finally, in this tower I realised that today is my birthday.
As I read in one tour book, the world‘s cultural heritage
is like a big puzzle. Each monument, each object, is an irreplaceable part of
the overall picture which gives us insight into our origins, our development
and our lives today. It helps us to understand and appreciate other cultures.
Each discovery, each new interpretation adds to the puzzle and makes the
picture clearer and as I feel new experiences rushing can
change our personalities a lot.
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